St. John’s Co-Cathedral of Malta
The Knights’ Legacy Preserved in Gold and Stone
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St. John’s Co-Cathedral is right there in the heart of Valletta, Malta’s capital. From the outside, this 16th-century building is rather simple, with plain limestone walls and a fortress-like facade that reflects Malta’s military history. How deceiving! When you step inside, you’re transported into an abundant world of baroque majesty, which differs St. John’s Co-Cathedral from any other church. This church is a masterpiece and a must-see for anyone visiting Malta.
A Gift from the Knights
The story of St. John’s Co-Cathedral begins in 1577 when the Knights of St. John, a religious and military order, finished its construction. Designed by Maltese architect Gironimo Cassar, the cathedral served as a place of worship for the knights, who defended Malta and the Mediterranean against Ottoman forces.
While the exterior of the co-cathedral displays the practical and defensive mindset of the knights, the interior is a surprise, like a hidden treasure. Over the years, the cathedral became a place where they could showcase their wealth, filling it with intricate carvings, gilded details, and stunning works of art.
A Baroque Feast for the Eyes
The moment you step into St. John’s Co-Cathedral, you are overwhelmed – by the gold and the marble on the walls, arches, and ceilings. I didn’t know what to expect when I first entered it, mostly because I didn’t do my research, and I only visited it to see the two Caravaggios I will mention below.
I was blown away. Although at first it may look like a chaotic scene, it seems each detail has a purpose, telling stories from the Bible and celebrating the lives of saints.
The vaulted ceiling, painted by Mattia Preti, depicts scenes from the life of St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of the knights.
Even the floor of the cathedral is extraordinary – covered in marble, it’s the final resting place for hundreds of knights. Each tombstone is a unique piece of art, decorated with coats of arms, skeletons, and symbols of death, a reminder of mortality and faith.
The Caravaggio Connection
I’m a Caravaggio fan, so that was my motive for stepping into this architectural wonder. Even if you don’t share my love of Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, don’t miss the two paintings in the Oratory.
The Beheading of St. John the Baptist (1608) is the largest painting Caravaggio ever created and the only one he signed. Known for his dramatic use of light and shadow, Caravaggio captures the moment of St. John’s martyrdom with intensity.
The other of the two is Saint Jerome Writing, also in the Oratory, depicting the saint deep in thought, writing with dramatic chiaroscuro, showcasing Caravaggio’s mastery of light and shadow during his time in Malta.
SO, as you can see, this church isn’t just a church or just another cathedral, and it isn’t just a highlight – it should be on a must-see list of every art lover and history buff, or just anyone who appreciates beauty.
I promise you haven’t seen anything similar.
This post is a reference to my JourneyJots post on Malta.
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I can't believe I never went inside. And I didn't get a chance to see a Caravaggio. I spent a month in Malta years ago.
I visited it many years ago so thank you for reminding me of it's beauty.